How To Celebrate São João Like A Local (Even If You Aren’t One)
If you’re lucky enough to be in Porto on June 23rd, you’re in for an experience like no other. The Festa de São João (Festival of St. John) is the city’s biggest and most exuberant celebration, transforming the streets into a lively, joyful party that lasts all night. While it honours Saint John, its roots are deep in pagan summer solstice traditions, making it a unique blend of ancient customs and modern revelry. Here’s how to dive in and celebrate like a true Portuense:
Embrace the Hammer: This is perhaps the most iconic and surprising São João tradition. As you walk through the crowds, expect to be playfully tapped on the head with a small, soft plastic hammer (a “martelinho”). It’s a sign of good humor and connection, not aggression! Buy one for yourself from street vendors and join in the fun.
Inhale the Scent of Basil (Manjericos): Another beloved tradition is the “manjerico,” a small pot of basil, often adorned with a paper flower and a little poem. Locals give these as gifts, particularly to loved ones. While the scent of basil fills the air, resist the urge to sniff directly – gently stroke the leaves and then smell your hand to avoid wilting the plant.
Feast on Sardines and Bifanas: The aroma of grilled sardines is the unofficial perfume of São João. Street grills pop up everywhere, serving fresh, charcoal-grilled sardines on a slice of rustic bread, typically eaten with your hands. Don’t miss out on “bifanas” (succulent marinated pork sandwiches) and “caldo verde” (a hearty kale and potato soup) either, often washed down with local wine or a cold Super Bock beer.
Release a Paper Balloon (Balão de São João): As dusk falls, the sky begins to fill with hundreds of “balões de São João” – small, delicate paper hot air balloons lit from within by a tiny flame. Releasing one into the night sky, carrying your wishes, is a magical and iconic part of the celebration.
Hit the Streets & Dance: The party begins early on the afternoon of the 23rd and continues until dawn on the 24th. Head to traditional neighborhoods like Ribeira, Fontainhas, or Miragaia for the most authentic street parties (arraiais) with live music, dancing, and communal tables. The energy is infectious, and you’ll find people of all ages celebrating together.
Watch the Midnight Fireworks (From a Good Spot!): At midnight, all eyes turn to the Douro River for a spectacular fireworks display, often launched from barges between the Dom Luís I and Arrábida bridges. Find a spot along the Ribeira in Porto or Cais de Gaia on the opposite bank for the best views. Jardim do Morro in Gaia is popular but gets extremely crowded, so arrive very early.
Walk to Foz (If You’re Still Standing!): For the truly resilient, the night often culminates in a long walk from the city center towards Foz do Douro, where the river meets the ocean, to watch the sunrise. It’s a traditional end to an unforgettable night of revelry.
São João is loud, joyful, and a little bit chaotic, but it’s an experience that truly captures the spirit of Porto. Wear comfortable shoes, be prepared for crowds, and bring your best mood – you’re in for one of Europe’s most unique street parties!
